Is anyone else tired of looking at horses that have absolutely NO training or breeding to justify their sale price? Especially a young horse..
4 Year Old Mare
I'm not going to pay 1,000 bucks for a 4 year old that has no training or breeding! Your horse walk, trots and canters; WOW so does mine, and every other horse out there that has been broken. I'm assuming said horse needs another 30 or more days of training to really be worth the money your asking, which would be around $400 or more per 30 days. Also Western Pleasure horses and Reining horses usually have very different training, and don't cross over, unless the horse is spectacular, and then it wouldn't be $1,000. And I can tie my horses head that low for work too, but your horses head in the air while your on her doesn't lead me to believe that she likes to keep it that low while moving. So lets take out our price for 30 days of training, and then maybe we can talk. Thats if she actually rides decently on a test ride.
13 Year Old Gelding
Now I will say, this horse has been on CL for months. He was originally over $2,000 but is now at $1800 obo. And lets read that post... Been ridden English and Western, taken over a couple jumps. Would make a great trail horse. You want $1800 for a trail horse? Not too mention it looks like he was ridden double by some girls that should not have been doing that for long.... I don't understand the appeal of riding double for any length of time. Sure if your horse goes lame and you need to double up thats understandable, but trail riding like that? Most horses can't support a person sitting so far back on their spine, so why risk hurting your horse for a double trail ride? Just never made sense to me, especially considering I have walked for miles and miles when my horse has gone lame in the middle of a trail. Don't be lazy ladies.
In summery, lets try and take the emotional aspect out of horse sales and really price the horse according to its training and breeding. Also training and breeding should always be listed in a sale environment. I don't care if your horse has gone out with mares and geldings before, or that they have been in parades or love camping. That is something a prospective buyer can ask if they desire that. Play to the widest range of buyers you can, but leave them wanting to find out about the horse. That way you can get them on the phone or talking thru email and really sell your horse
Sunday, February 19, 2012
Wednesday, January 18, 2012
Temperatures are dropping
The weather report is saying its going to be in the mid 20's tonight. I know thats a big change from the 65* of yesterday, and it makes it all the more important to get your barn and horse ready. Hopefully everyone is going to be draining hoses tonight, otherwise your horses are going to be SOL tomorrow unless you have a new hose at the ready. De-icing a hose takes a LONG time, and I know from personal experience. I like to make sure our horses have lots and lots of hay for the long, cold night. Hay keeps their guys moving and your horse warm. If he or she isn't clipped for winter showing, or has no winter coat, technically hay is all a horse will need in their stall to keep warm. If they are outside they need a place to get out of the wind in addition to hay. If you've ever been out west or in the mountains, you will have noticed that most ranchers don't blanket their horses.. EVER. A constant supply of hay and a wind barrier is really all they need. Horses are designed to keep warm with very little additional help from people.
If your horse is clipped, or winter coat lacking, invest in a good blanket or 2 for the cold season. Different brands fit differently so make sure you can return it if you haven't dirtied it, and try it on your baby to ensure proper fit. An ill fitting blanket can cause considerable issues for your horse. A higher denier will result in a warmer blanket, and a waterproof coating is your best bet unless you plan to get a stable blanket, and a turnout blanket. My horse usually doesn't get blanketed unless its in the teens if he's inside and has hay.
I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE heated water buckets! Some horses refuse to poke the ice in their buckets and will instead go thirsty (this is my horse =P). Obviously dehydration is a serious problem regardless of the time of year. Most heated buckets don't actually heat the water, just keep it from freezing so no ice topper occurs. Make sure the bucket is large enough for your horse to get the recommended amount of water for a day/night. A large draft might need two or three heated buckets =). Try and get a bucket that has a cord protector so your horse can't chew through any electrical cord, or paw and strip it, in my case.
And the last thing I did was plug in my diesel truck. =)~ Gotta love a Ford diesel!
If your horse is clipped, or winter coat lacking, invest in a good blanket or 2 for the cold season. Different brands fit differently so make sure you can return it if you haven't dirtied it, and try it on your baby to ensure proper fit. An ill fitting blanket can cause considerable issues for your horse. A higher denier will result in a warmer blanket, and a waterproof coating is your best bet unless you plan to get a stable blanket, and a turnout blanket. My horse usually doesn't get blanketed unless its in the teens if he's inside and has hay.
I LOVE, LOVE, LOVE heated water buckets! Some horses refuse to poke the ice in their buckets and will instead go thirsty (this is my horse =P). Obviously dehydration is a serious problem regardless of the time of year. Most heated buckets don't actually heat the water, just keep it from freezing so no ice topper occurs. Make sure the bucket is large enough for your horse to get the recommended amount of water for a day/night. A large draft might need two or three heated buckets =). Try and get a bucket that has a cord protector so your horse can't chew through any electrical cord, or paw and strip it, in my case.
And the last thing I did was plug in my diesel truck. =)~ Gotta love a Ford diesel!
Friday, January 6, 2012
New Spaces
While I am happily settled at my current barn, I have had to undertake the exhausting search for a new barn, two actually within the last three years. When I started looking I made a list of things that I wanted out of my new place, along with things I could compromise on, and things I wouldn't tolerate (which is probably more then most considering I have worked in several barns). Today is going to be things that I would not compromise on in my boarding situation.
I wanted a large stall with fresh shavings as needed. To me that means at LEAST a 10 X 10 stall. While I like something bigger, it has to be at least that size. Especially if said barn keeps their horses in 1/2 the day. And I don't expect to have new shavings daily, every other day, or every third day. I know my horse, and he generally does not need a large amount of shavings. However some people prefer fluffy shavings, but really you just need enough to soak up the pee if they have proper footing underneath.
Large grassy pastures that are not over run with too many horses. Grass is what horses are made to eat, and most local barns over graze their pastures terribly. If a horse is out full time it should have over 1 acre if its alone. So a place with 20 horses on 10 or less acres PROBABLY doesn't have nice pastures unless the horses get almost no grazing time. I prefer my horse to be out half the day or more since its the closest thing to him being in the wild. Now of course if you have a show horse it might not go out to graze at all, but again these are things the owner has to decide they want.
Clean water! I expect clean water in the stall and in the pastures. Buckets in stalls should be cleaned every week or two. Water should always be available in the pasture, with large water tubs to accommodate 2 horses drinking at once.
A place to ride that has decent footing. I would prefer an arena, but I will take a grass ring in a pasture as long as there aren't horses in the pasture. I am not there to move horses around, I want to ride my horse. I also like trails within riding distance, because most things that are practiced in the arena can be practiced on the trail, and the change of scenery never hurts a horses mind set.
Electricity at the stall. Depending on where I am in the country, I either need fans in the summer or a heated water bucket in the winter, and sometimes both.
Trailer parking that fits my trailer. I don't have a 2 horse trailer, so I like to make sure the barn has room for it. I like my trailer on site where my horse stays. That way I can trailer on a moments notice to ride, and store anything extra that doesn't fit in my tack locker.
A tack room. IF I trust other boarders, and the owners are out frequently, I'm ok with my stuff being in a large room with just saddle racks. If its a large facility with lots of people traffic I want a locking tack locker that will fit my tack and a set of brushes. Bonus points for extra big lockers. ;)
Good quality hay. No compromises on this. I look at every barns hay supply when I check the barn out, and smell it. My horse should be getting at least 3 flakes a day, and he is a small horse with a medium work load. Any increase in work should result in an increase of hay. I don't like round bales in the pasture since my horse would blow up like a balloon, but if there isn't any grass, sometimes round bales are needed. In the winter hay keeps a horse warm by keeping their guts moving, and some forage is needed when its really cold for this reason.
Good quality feed. As a medium to heavy working horse, my guy needs a good feed with enough protein and fat to supplement our workouts and riding. I always look at the used feed bags at a prospective barn, and tear off the tag to read the nutrition and ingredients. Feeding a horse crappy feed won't maintain weight nor put any on. Its a nutritional fact people!
Safe fencing in all the pastures. I am very allowing in what the type of fencing is, as long as its in good condition. There shouldn't be broken boards, downed trees or branches, nor any broken gates. If the barn owner can't fix the fencing in a timely manor, don't expect anything else to get done around the barn.
No large groups of horses on a tiny little pasture. If a fight should break out, which it WILL, I want my horse to be able to get away.
No skinny horses on the property. Unless the horse has been rescued and is recovering, there is NO reason for any horse to be skinny. And by skinny I mean a 3 or lower on the equine body condition scale. Showing a little bit of ribs is actually normal for most horses, but I better not see other prominent bones. Barn owners are responsible for feeding the horses on their property by law in most states. If payment of board is overly delinquent some boarding agreements will state that the horse is forfeit to cover any money lost.
And finally for today, a knowledgeable barn manager. I want my horse looked after by a kind and informed person. If you don't ride, then your not qualified to take care of my horse. Hands on experience is important with horses! I want years of horse experience under a persons belt before they care for my horse; and my horse is a relatively easy keeper with very few issues.
Spend some time at the barns, and try to not make rash decisions with the place that is taking care of your horse.
I wanted a large stall with fresh shavings as needed. To me that means at LEAST a 10 X 10 stall. While I like something bigger, it has to be at least that size. Especially if said barn keeps their horses in 1/2 the day. And I don't expect to have new shavings daily, every other day, or every third day. I know my horse, and he generally does not need a large amount of shavings. However some people prefer fluffy shavings, but really you just need enough to soak up the pee if they have proper footing underneath.
Large grassy pastures that are not over run with too many horses. Grass is what horses are made to eat, and most local barns over graze their pastures terribly. If a horse is out full time it should have over 1 acre if its alone. So a place with 20 horses on 10 or less acres PROBABLY doesn't have nice pastures unless the horses get almost no grazing time. I prefer my horse to be out half the day or more since its the closest thing to him being in the wild. Now of course if you have a show horse it might not go out to graze at all, but again these are things the owner has to decide they want.
Clean water! I expect clean water in the stall and in the pastures. Buckets in stalls should be cleaned every week or two. Water should always be available in the pasture, with large water tubs to accommodate 2 horses drinking at once.
A place to ride that has decent footing. I would prefer an arena, but I will take a grass ring in a pasture as long as there aren't horses in the pasture. I am not there to move horses around, I want to ride my horse. I also like trails within riding distance, because most things that are practiced in the arena can be practiced on the trail, and the change of scenery never hurts a horses mind set.
Electricity at the stall. Depending on where I am in the country, I either need fans in the summer or a heated water bucket in the winter, and sometimes both.
Trailer parking that fits my trailer. I don't have a 2 horse trailer, so I like to make sure the barn has room for it. I like my trailer on site where my horse stays. That way I can trailer on a moments notice to ride, and store anything extra that doesn't fit in my tack locker.
A tack room. IF I trust other boarders, and the owners are out frequently, I'm ok with my stuff being in a large room with just saddle racks. If its a large facility with lots of people traffic I want a locking tack locker that will fit my tack and a set of brushes. Bonus points for extra big lockers. ;)
Good quality hay. No compromises on this. I look at every barns hay supply when I check the barn out, and smell it. My horse should be getting at least 3 flakes a day, and he is a small horse with a medium work load. Any increase in work should result in an increase of hay. I don't like round bales in the pasture since my horse would blow up like a balloon, but if there isn't any grass, sometimes round bales are needed. In the winter hay keeps a horse warm by keeping their guts moving, and some forage is needed when its really cold for this reason.
Good quality feed. As a medium to heavy working horse, my guy needs a good feed with enough protein and fat to supplement our workouts and riding. I always look at the used feed bags at a prospective barn, and tear off the tag to read the nutrition and ingredients. Feeding a horse crappy feed won't maintain weight nor put any on. Its a nutritional fact people!
Safe fencing in all the pastures. I am very allowing in what the type of fencing is, as long as its in good condition. There shouldn't be broken boards, downed trees or branches, nor any broken gates. If the barn owner can't fix the fencing in a timely manor, don't expect anything else to get done around the barn.
No large groups of horses on a tiny little pasture. If a fight should break out, which it WILL, I want my horse to be able to get away.
No skinny horses on the property. Unless the horse has been rescued and is recovering, there is NO reason for any horse to be skinny. And by skinny I mean a 3 or lower on the equine body condition scale. Showing a little bit of ribs is actually normal for most horses, but I better not see other prominent bones. Barn owners are responsible for feeding the horses on their property by law in most states. If payment of board is overly delinquent some boarding agreements will state that the horse is forfeit to cover any money lost.
And finally for today, a knowledgeable barn manager. I want my horse looked after by a kind and informed person. If you don't ride, then your not qualified to take care of my horse. Hands on experience is important with horses! I want years of horse experience under a persons belt before they care for my horse; and my horse is a relatively easy keeper with very few issues.
Spend some time at the barns, and try to not make rash decisions with the place that is taking care of your horse.
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